HSF #17/2014 – Yellow

The Challenge: Yellow
What is it? A medieval needlecase
Fabric: Embroided on wool, lined with linen and embroided  with silk and cotton
Pattern: Selfdrafted with inspiration from archaeological finds and a pattern from Medieval Silkwork. 
Year: 13th & 14th century Medieval
Notions: I chose to use cotton thread in some of the colours. Yellow and Green. Mostly because I couldn’t get it in silk and I really wanted to get started. 
How historically accurate is it? Apart from the cotton, and the lack of find of fabric needle cases from the medieval period, I guess it pretty close and it is completely done by hand. I would say 60 %.
Hours to complete: 12 hours
First worn: I need to collect some medieval sewing gear before this can be used.
Total cost: About $10 USD

Inspiration and link to source

More information on brick stiches: 
Medieval Silkwork

Medieval Arts and Crafts

Medieval Threads

More about brick stitches

HSF #16/2014 – Terminology

The Challenge: Terminology
What is it? A needlebinded pair of socks
Fabric: 100 % organic wool, from norway – Sandes Garn
Pattern: Selfdrafted with inspiration from archaeological finds.
Year: Viking age and early medieval Scandinavia. 
Notions: Made with a custom made bone needle.
How historically accurate is it? This is very accurate. There is a lot of finds from Denmark and the rest of Scandinavia. If I should make this more accurate I would need to find some hand dyed wool. 
Hours to complete: 5 hours
First worn: Right now! This is the best socks to keep your cold feet warm!
Total cost: About $10 USD

 

How old the history of needlebinding goes back, I am not sure of. But it seems to be a part of the Scandinavian culture a long time before the start of the viking age.

I do not know where this picture is from. But i need to share it so you can get an idea of which model I am making, B.

This sock was found in Uppsala 1961, but is dated to early medieval time: read more here

Wanna learn more? Here is a german blog, where you can learn most of the basics. I must say I am a fan 🙂

Literature:
Mellegren, Nusse: Nålbinding – The easiest, clearest ever guide, 2008.
Hald, M.: Olddanske tekstiler (Ancient Danish Textiles from bogs and burials), 1950.

 

HSF #13/2014 – Under $10

 

The Challenge: Under $10
What is it? A 1940s inspired dress  from children’s fashion.
Fabric: Cotton-linen Tablecloth from the 1960s
Pattern: Half Burda 7494 and self drafted.
Year: 1940s
Notions: This dress is inspired by the 1940s children dresses. The Peter Pan collar especially. The techniques are time appropriate, but this dress would never have been worn by any in the 1940s. So it is much more just an inspired piece. One sad part is that i have made it a bit to large. Might end giving it away. 
How historically accurate is it? Not very much. It is just inspired by the 1940s children fashion.
Hours to complete: 6 hours
First worn: Not yet. 
Total cost: $0 USD- got an old tablecloth from my mother. The zipper cost me $6 USD.

This is some of the pictures I found for inspiration

Source: Link

Source: Link

Dorothy form The Wizard of Oz (1939).
Source: Link

HSF # 12 – Shape and Support

What the item is: Late Edwardian Corset (1910s)

The Challenge: # 12 – Shape and Support

Fabric: Cotton coutil, Silk ribbon and vintage cotton lace.

Pattern: Nehelenia 1910 Corset Pattern

Year: 1910s

Notions: Polyester thread

How historically accurate is it? Quiet fair. The Pattern is based on a extant corset from the 1910s. I have only used period appropriate techniques. But my polyester thread is  the game killer. So about 90 %

Hours to complete: SO MANY! But to be fair: About 3 hours of cutting, 4 hours of fitting and 10 hours of sewing. So all together about 17 hours in all.

First worn: Only for photos. But I am planning a 1915-16s suit

Total cost: ca. $ 110 USD

 

I must say. I really like this pattern. It is easy to sew and fit. It is so different from an victorian corset. Not tight at all! Fells like getting a big hug.

 

HSF #11/2014 – The Politics of Fashion

 

What is it? Shirtwaist dress
The Challenge: 11 – The Politics of Fashion
Fabric: 100 % Cotton
Pattern: Butterick 2531 (1943)
Year: 1943
Notions: Earlier this year I announced, I was joining up in a Danish WW2 group. This is why i made this dress. The other reason why I wanted this dress is how much I love the clothing of the rural people of all time. So many people is focusing on the middle and upper class in most reenactment societies. One of the reason is that it is more fun to dress up pretty, than dressing down. But in my heart, there is a special place for all those simple folks.
What makes this political? WW2 was a big deal in Europe. So many people suffered in so many ways. I started planning this dress back in January. I knew I wanted it so be as accurate as possible. So I sat down and started thinking. Back in the 40’s people in most of Europe was in short of everything. So i chose to cut my pattern asymmetrical in the skirt, to cut down of fabric use. I wanted this dress to get that feeling. And people loved it at the event. Asked where I bought and telling me how authentic I looked. Just like themselves back ten or their mothers.
How historically accurate is it? Very close!
Hours to complete: 10 hours
First worn: March 24th at a WW2 event called Bunker By Night : link
Total cost: c. 45 $

 

 

 

 

 

HSF #6/2014 – Fairytale

Late as always! And full of bad excuses like exams and planning exchange (This will be on another post).

This post is a about my entrance for the Historical Sewing Fortnightly #6: Fairytales. I live in Denmark, and was born and raised in Hans Christian Andersen’s birthplace – Odense. So what would fit more than one of his fairytales? I have chosen the fairytale The Emperor’s New Clothes. Mostly because I love it, and have read it several times as a kid and an adult.
The Emperor is a man who only thinks about clothes. One day two new tailors arrives and makes the Emperor believe that what he can not see is the most fantastic clothes in the world. In the end the Emperor takes on this new set clothes and walks through the city. Here is how it ended:

Source: Vilhelm Pedersen

“… So off went the Emperor in procession under his splendid canopy. Everyone in the streets and the windows said, “Oh, how fine are the Emperor’s new clothes! Don’t they fit him to perfection? And see his long train!” Nobody would confess that he couldn’t see anything, for that would prove him either unfit for his position, or a fool. No costume the Emperor had worn before was ever such a complete success.

“But he hasn’t got anything on,” a little child said.

“Did you ever hear such innocent prattle?” said its father. And one person whispered to another what the child had said, “He hasn’t anything on. A child says he hasn’t anything on.”

“But he hasn’t got anything on!” the whole town cried out at last.

The Emperor shivered, for he suspected they were right. But he thought, “This procession has got to go on.” So he walked more proudly than ever, as his noblemen held high the train that wasn’t there at all.” – The END

The ending of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Emperor’s New Clothes. To read the whole fairtale use this link: The Emperor’s New Clothes

 

 

What is it? Victorian Chemise

The Challenge: HSF#6 – Fairytale

Fabric: 100 % pure cotton

Pattern: Laughing Moons #100

Year: 1840 – 1900

Notions: The sides is sewn with french seams. Mainly machine sewn.

How historically accurate is it? I have tried only to use fabric and techniques used in the period. But I might have overlooked something. About 90 %

Hours to complete: 5 hours

First worn: For the photo shoot. Is going to wear it for a late Victorian (1899) event.

Total cost: Lace is ordered from England (about 15 $) and Fabric is bought in Denmark (10 $). 25 $