HSF #17/2014 – Yellow

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The Challenge: Yellow
What is it? A medieval needlecase
Fabric: Embroided on wool, lined with linen and embroided  with silk and cotton
Pattern:
 Selfdrafted with inspiration from archaeological finds and a pattern from Medieval Silkwork
Year:
13th & 14th century Medieval
Notions:
I chose to use cotton thread in some of the colours. Yellow and Green. Mostly because I couldn’t get it in silk and I really wanted to get started. 
How historically accurate is it?
 Apart from the cotton, and the lack of find of fabric needle cases from the medieval period, I guess it pretty close and it is completely done by hand. I would say 60 %.
Hours to complete:
 12 hours
First worn: 
I need to collect some medieval sewing gear before this can be used.
Total cost:
About $10 USD

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m194689_stdInspiration and link to source

More information on brick stiches: 
Medieval Silkwork

Medieval Arts and Crafts

Medieval Threads

More about brick stitches

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HSF #16/2014 – Terminology

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The Challenge: Terminology
What is it? A needlebinded pair of socks
Fabric: 100 % organic wool, from norway – Sandes Garn
Pattern:
 Selfdrafted with inspiration from archaeological finds.
Year:
Viking age and early medieval Scandinavia. 
Notions:
Made with a custom made bone needle.
How historically accurate is it?
 This is very accurate. There is a lot of finds from Denmark and the rest of Scandinavia. If I should make this more accurate I would need to find some hand dyed wool. 
Hours to complete:
 5 hours
First worn: 
Right now! This is the best socks to keep your cold feet warm!
Total cost:
About $10 USD

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How old the history of needlebinding goes back, I am not sure of. But it seems to be a part of the Scandinavian culture a long time before the start of the viking age.

Forsk. nålebundne sokker

I do not know where this picture is from. But i need to share it so you can get an idea of which model I am making, B.
168139This sock was found in Uppsala 1961, but is dated to early medieval time: read more here

Wanna learn more? Here is a german blog, where you can learn most of the basics. I must say I am a fan 🙂

Literature:
Mellegren, Nusse: Nålbinding – The easiest, clearest ever guide, 2008.
Hald, M.: Olddanske tekstiler (Ancient Danish Textiles from bogs and burials), 1950.

 

HSF #6/2014 – Fairytale

Late as always! And full of bad excuses like exams and planning exchange (This will be on another post).

This post is a about my entrance for the Historical Sewing Fortnightly #6: Fairytales. I live in Denmark, and was born and raised in Hans Christian Andersen’s birthplace – Odense. So what would fit more than one of his fairytales? I have chosen the fairytale The Emperor’s New Clothes. Mostly because I love it, and have read it several times as a kid and an adult.
The Emperor is a man who only thinks about clothes. One day two new tailors arrives and makes the Emperor believe that what he can not see is the most fantastic clothes in the world. In the end the Emperor takes on this new set clothes and walks through the city. Here is how it ended:

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Source: Vilhelm Pedersen

“… So off went the Emperor in procession under his splendid canopy. Everyone in the streets and the windows said, “Oh, how fine are the Emperor’s new clothes! Don’t they fit him to perfection? And see his long train!” Nobody would confess that he couldn’t see anything, for that would prove him either unfit for his position, or a fool. No costume the Emperor had worn before was ever such a complete success.

“But he hasn’t got anything on,” a little child said.

“Did you ever hear such innocent prattle?” said its father. And one person whispered to another what the child had said, “He hasn’t anything on. A child says he hasn’t anything on.”

“But he hasn’t got anything on!” the whole town cried out at last.

The Emperor shivered, for he suspected they were right. But he thought, “This procession has got to go on.” So he walked more proudly than ever, as his noblemen held high the train that wasn’t there at all.” – The END

The ending of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Emperor’s New Clothes. To read the whole fairtale use this link: The Emperor’s New Clothes

 

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What is it? Victorian Chemise

The Challenge: HSF#6 – Fairytale

Fabric: 100 % pure cotton

Pattern: Laughing Moons #100

Year: 1840 – 1900

Notions: The sides is sewn with french seams. Mainly machine sewn.

How historically accurate is it? I have tried only to use fabric and techniques used in the period. But I might have overlooked something. About 90 %

Hours to complete: 5 hours

First worn: For the photo shoot. Is going to wear it for a late Victorian (1899) event.

Total cost: Lace is ordered from England (about 15 $) and Fabric is bought in Denmark (10 $). 25 $

 

It is a hard world of studying

One of the less great things about studying is the lack of time to do anything else. These past three months have been so stressful, and at a time literately thought I was going down with the scary folk illness called stress. But thankfully I am not! I started sewing my HSF #3 Challenge back in February. But because of the missing time and missing pleasure of sewing, I haven’t come around to finish it yet.

So NOW! After 1 ½ week of fever and throat pain am I ready to start again! I am only minutes from finishing one of the challenges and close with another one as well. I hope to finish them both on Friday.

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I bought this wonderful book at a book sale for used books. Love it! It is in Danish and tells of the regional Danish rural shirts (men). The time frame is from 1770-1870, but many of techniques can be used for earlier work as well.

HSF #2/2014 – Innovations

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The Challenge: HSF#2/2014 – Innovations
Fabric: Pure white Cotton
Pattern: TV108 – Grand Bustle
Year: 1869-1875
Notions: Plastic covered boning
How historically accurate is it? As far as methode it is very accurate. Didn’t serge the ends mechanically and finished all the details in hand. Such a ruffles .. Oh them ruffles!
Hours to complete: Approximately 12 hours
First worn: Today. Do not know for what Event I will wear this yet.
Total cost: Stash and 30 dollars worth of cotton.

The Innovation:
The theme for this challenge was innovations. I wanted to use minimum 2 innovations in this challenge. The first is the introduction of the sewing machine into private households. The Victorian era, with its massive expansion in industry and technology proved to be the fertile ground from which the sewing machine grew (source). The other innovation is more like a reinvention. The Bustle. This was a further development of the crinoline of the 1850’s and the farthingale from the renaissance (which has a long history I will share with you later!).

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HSF #1/2014 – Make do & Mend

For this HSF challenge I wanted to do something in the spirit of my Grandfathers role as a resistance man during WW2 in Denmark. In an earlier post I mentioned that I have started to re-enact WW2. So this is also why I needed a wardrobe for these events.

HSF#1/2014 first theme was Make do & Mend. Since I had nothing to mend I did a Make do.

The Challenge:
HSF #1/2014 – Make do and Mend

Fabric:
Black Rayon

Pattern: 
The pattern is made by www.veravenus.com and can be found here.

Year:
1930s/1940s

Notions:
Used cotton tread. Cotton lace.

How historically accurate is it? 
I would say about 99,99%. I ave used the right fabric and period technics to make these.

Hours to complete: 
6 Hours

First worn:
Haven’t worn it for an event yet.

Total cost: 
It was all from stash. Except the closing that cost around 2 $

 

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Side

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Side half front